The archive
170 pieces published since December 2013
Travel12 October 2026
Twelve hours from Kapan to Gyumri: a shared taxi over Tatev, a metro entrance in Yerevan I could not find, and a train whose last hour runs beside the Turkish border.
Culture10 October 2026
Four relics from the History Museum of Armenia are on show at the Byzantine Museum in Nicosia, beside the Sourp Magar Gospel, brought home from Munich, and a new khachkar.
Travel3 October 2026
From Kapan to Tsak Kar lake at 3,270 metres, with snow and ice in August under the Nakhichevan border, then down to Meghri and the Araks, with Iran on the far bank.
Travel29 September 2026
At three in the morning I climbed Mount Khustup by headlamp, met a fox at 3,200 metres, watched the cloud become a sea below us, and ended the day in Kapan at night.
Diaspora28 September 2026
On the weekend of Saint Kevork’s feast we drove from Nicosia to Sourp Kevork, the Armenian church of Limassol, for the Sunday liturgy and the blessing of the madagh.
Culture26 September 2026
The Armenian Cultural Gala in Nicosia marked 35 years of independence with the Komitas Project and Khali, a dance on the colours of the Armenian carpet.
Travel23 September 2026
I set out from Goris with no plan, followed a dog through Old Goris, crossed Khndzoresk’s swinging bridge over the cave town and went over the mountain to Kapan.
Travel13 September 2026
A day trip south from Yerevan through Khor Virap, Areni, Shaki and Tatev to a concert in Goris, with a guide who gave us eleven hours of history and, between the villages, her voice.
Travel8 September 2026
I arrived in Yerevan in August with nothing booked and lost four hours of daylight to it. Everything worth filming happened after I gave up.
